HOME OF THE ASHFALL  John Jack Wigley
                                       Pampanga


The eruption of Mount Pinatubo was recorded as  the second largest terrestrial eruption of the 20th century, and the largest eruption populated area.  Ash fall, which formed a weighty, rain‐drenched snow‐like film, affected almost the entire island of  luzon, and even reached the neighboring countries of Malaysia and Vietnam. It was further aggravated  because of Typhoon Yunnan, which brought with it  heavy rains and strong winds. To the Kampampangans and to the people affected by this tragedy, it would  serve as a testament to their irrepressible attribute  of rising about their plight and predicament.

 I was no longer living in Angeles City when  Mt. Pinatubo erupted on June 15, 1991. I was  promoted from being a crew member at Pizza Hut  Dau to management trainee at Pizza Hut Harrison  Plaza in December 1990. After being a service crew  member for more than four years and graduating  from college in 1989, I had to say goodbye to my  hometown where I lived for more than two decades.  It was my first time to work in manila. I asked the  assistance of Ed Calupitan, a fellow Pizza Hut Dau  crew member now based in Manila, to help me find  a place to stay. He was living in a two‐bedroom  apartment and gladly offered the other room to me.

Weeks before the eruption, I read several  news and warnings about Mt. Pinatubo. Frankly, I  never knew that there was a volcano in the  Zambales mountain range. Nobody among my  Kapampangan friends did. I guess we were all clueless about the impending danger this would  cause in our lives. Later on Later on, I realized that the summit of the volcano was just forteen  kilometers away from the extent of Clark Air Base. I thought that volcanoes were conspicuous mountains  and had fierce‐looking summits like Mayon’s and  Haicon’s. But this one was deeply hidden among the  several mountains called the Cabusilan mountains”  of Zambales. How a volcano had managed to hide  among the mountains and be covered with a  defense forest was something I couldn’t comprehend.  If it was bound to erupt, I guess it would be just like  a firecracker.

Hell, I thought that if there was a mountain  near us which I imagined would erupt anytime, it would be the Arayat, which was located at the heart  of Pampanga, with its open mouth and forbidding countenance. Not this obscure mountain whose  native inhabitants, the Aetas, never even knew  about, I  paid no more attention to warnings.

I had only been in Manila for barely six  months and was enjoying my new‐found  independence. I would sometimes go to Angeles  City to see Mother during days off, which usually fell  on a weekday,since management people did not  have the luxury of the day‐off during weekends  because it was the time when more people would go  out and eat.Pizza Hut Harizon Plaza was a high volume unit.

That fateful day, after my opening shift, I  went to see a film. I t was “Hihintayin Kita sa Langit”,  a film adaption of Bronte’s “Withering Heights”  directed by Carlitos Siguion Reyna. The film starred erstwhile lovers played by Richard Gomez and  Dawn Zulueta. I was feeling all mushy and melodramatic after watching the film when, once  outside, I saw parked cars covered with what seemed like a whitish‐gray blanket. And so were the  streets. Is it finally showing in Manila? I thought, as I  felt some of the particles in my hand and smudge my  shirt. When I looked closely and touched them, they  were grainy. It was like ash from an ashtray.

Sa kabila ng aking paghingal dahil sa pagod  at takot , sabi ko: “Nanang ,ay nabangga! Parang si... Parang si...”

Hindi na nag‐urirat pa si Nanang kung sino  ang nabangga. Tumakbong pumunta siya sa kalsada at nakalimutan pang magsuot ng ng tsinelas o kahit  man lang sana pinusod ang medyo mahabang nagtitikwasang buhok.

Halos patakbo rin akong sumunod kay  Nanang kahit sobrang kaba ko na.

 Ang gagong si Kalbo na lang sana! Sumpa ko  sa loob‐loob ko na ang nasa isip ko, ang CAFGU na  nambugbog at muntik bumaril kay Angkel Mulong na kapatid din ni Nanang at sinundan ni Angkel  Ceferinc. Mabait kasi si Angkel Mulong dahil kung  manghuhuli siya ng isda sa Calacungan, nag‐iiwan  siya ng gustong gusto kong sugpo na sinlaki ng  hinlalaki ng paa—at samaral na sinlaki ng palad ni  Tatang.

Pero nagulat akopagkarating ni Nanang sa  may umpukan, kaagad siyang umiyak ng pasigaw. Inaawat nila dahil sobra ang kanyang pagwawala.  Wala akong ibang naintindihan sa mga isinisigaw niya kundiang magkakasunod na “Diyos ko po! Diyos  ko po!”

Nanghilakbot ako. Nagtayuan ang mga  balahibo ko.

Siguradong hindi si Boying ang nabangga‐‐higanon ang magging asta ni Nanang kung ang  kaibigan ko dahil malayong pamangkin na siya ng  nanay ko.

E sino?  Si Tatang kaya? Pero alam kong  hindi, dahil sa mga ganoong oras na malambot pa  ang sikat ng araw, katatapos lamang dalhin sa ilog  ang kalabaw niya; at hindi dadaan sa national  highway dahil naibenta niya ang kaisa‐isang bisikleta  niya at ipinambayad sa klinika at sa mga gamot ni Nanang na nakaapak ng bubog noong hinahabol nya  ang inahin na kinatay namin noong kaarawan ni Tatang na ginawa nilang araw ng pag‐aalala sa mga  kaluluwa ng mga namatay naming mahal sa buhay.

Hindi rin naman ang mga kapatid ko dahil  nasa silangan ang elementaryang pinapasukan nila  sa Grade Six at Grade One.

Nagtaka ko kung sino dahil ganoon na  lamang magwala si Nanang. At para akong nakasagi  ng espiritu dahil napakaliwanag sa aking pandinig  ang tila nagmula sa ilalim ng lupang pangahoy ni  Nanang: “Kapatid ko! Ato! Kapatid ko! Ato!”

Kahit noong nailibing na si Angkel Ato,  madalas akong nahihintakutan kung maaalala ko ang malagim na pag iyak ni Nanang.

Mag‐aalas dos nang magparada ang karo ng  punenarya sa rough road ng barangay sa harapan ng lote ng mag‐anak nina Nanang na nasa gitna sa pook  ng mga Palor. Sotelo ang apelyido ng ama nina Nanang na magmula sa Sto. Domingo, Ilocos Sur, at  nakapag asawa ng galing sa angkan ng mga Palor ng  Villa.

Halo‐halong mga iyak ang naghatid sa  makislap na puting kabaong ni Angkel Ato sa sala ng  bahay nila. Subalit mas lumutang na naman ang pagiyak ni Nanang at inawat pa ni Tatang dahil hinihila  na ng bakuran nina Angkel Ato, sa ililim ng  matandang mangga.

Agad ding pinatabi muna ni Angkel Mulong  ang mga nakapalibot sa tatlong mesa na naglalaro ng tong‐its at pusoy dos. Nauna pa nga sila kaysa sa  bangkay (Hanggang ngayon pugad ng mga mahihilig  maglaro ng baraha ang baryo namin.)    “Saka na ‘yan atupagin pag naiayos na!”  medyo mabigat ang tenor ng boses ni Angkel  Mulong nang di kaagad tumabi ang mga kalalakihang nagsusugal na di ko alam kung taga saan.    Di ko noon maintindihan na pagkatapos  maiakyat ang kabaong, at pagkatapos makipag‐usap  ang mga taga‐punenarya kay Nanang, kaagad din  nilang binuksan ang kabaong, tinakpan ng puting  kumot saka hinango ang bangkay.


I saw farther down the riverbank that  people were lining up to cross the river by stepping  on coconut trunks and wooden poles attached from  one end to the other. The gaunt shirtless bot who  was juggling coins and walking to and fro shouted.  “Pesus mu. Deng bisang lumakad papunta Angeles, keni na kayo bang ali la mabasa deng bitis yu. For  one peso, take this trail and your feet won't get wet in  the river”. I was about to fall in line but i realized  that there as a long queue of people already as far as  the bend , waiting for their turn to get actions the  river.

It would take me forever to get to other  side if I fall in line, I thought. I talked to the person  behind me. “Malalam ya pu ing daanum. Is the  water deep?”

 “Tabalu. Bala mu, malalam pin. I don;t  know. It’s deep. I guess,” the immediately rejoined.  “Lawen me itang tau angga ne keng atyan na. Look  at the guy crossing. The water’s up to his tummy,”  he said, pointing to the man.    It was deep, I contempalted. I didn’t want  to take the risk of getting my clothes wet. I was also  thinking that perhaps the water that flowed down the river was contaminated because of the volcanic  ash and the sulfuric content of the water.

  Just the i saw about four barkers holding  wooden chairs, inviting people to cross the river on  these chairs. They explained that people would be  sitting on the chair and thr barkers themselves woul  carry the chair to the other side for a fee of ten  pesos. Despite the horrible sight before me, I forced  a smile I was thinking about how indestructible  humans are. These people were still struggling to live  even if catastrophes like thypoons and volcanic  eruptions had truck. Catastrphes constantly plagued  their lives. I felt deep admiration for them.    One barker thought my smie was an  indication that I wanted to ride in the chair. “Bisa  kang sake. Would you like to take a ride?” he asked.    I was meaning to say no but I was  speechless, still talking everything in. Besides, I  wanted to see my family. I noded my head.    “Koya, padagdag naku mu keka ne. Kasi  lupa kang mabayat. I’ll charge you extra. You look  heavy” the barker smiled fully; revealing he had no  teeth.

For a moment, i wanted to pull his hair and  drown his head in the river. This impertinent one. I  thought. He had to subtly insult my chubby body.  But I surmised that he meant well. It was not going  to be easy carrying me to the other side of the river.  I just simply agreed.

I sat on the chair ad put the bag on my lap.  The barker clasped an improvised rope seatbelt from  one and tp the other. Yeah, like I would experience a  terrible accident by forgetting to use this seatbelt, I  thought sarcastically.

Just hold the chair’s handles, sir it’s good  that you came this early. Potang gatganapun, ali  tana makapunta karin uling malalam ne ing danum.  Later in the afternoon, we won’t be able to cross because of the deep water,” the barker  enthusiastically said.    As he started lifting the chair, I felt that i  was sliding down. The fabric of my pants was  slippery “Saguli, Kala‐kalale. Wait, careful Mananabu  ku! I’m falling,” I cried.

The barker halted for a second and  adjusted my weight on his arms. I wiggle  momentarily and after a while, I instructed him to  carry on. He looked at me and then smiled blissfully.    First, it was my body weight. Then I sensed  that he was mocking me because he thought iI was a  sissy. I turned back to the other barkers, and they  were all carrying passengers, all of whom were  women. One was carrying an older woman with  cane. I  saw the men and they were braving the river.  Oh dear, now all these barkers would regard me as  the only man in the Abacan river who did not want  to get his feet wet. Why hadn’t I decided early on to  just cross the river? Now, I felt guilty that I had to  subject this cadaver‐looking barker to such pain and  suffering by carrying me, the queen all of my 160 pound royalty for a measly 15 pesos. I shock my head  of all this guilt away. Well, too bad, I thought I had  the money which you hadn’t, Sorry. Even in ancient  times, slaves laboriously carried their obese masters.  History repeats itself, I tried to reason out in my  thoughts.

 When we got to the middle of the river, I  closed my eyes, not because  I was afraid of the  water , but  because I was worried that the barker  wouldn’t be able to cross it, with me as his burden.  The water was already knee‐deep. He wasn’t even  wearing any footwear . What if he slid down because  he stepped on a rock or a hole under the water?

 But he was very much focused. His steps  were show but cautious. I wanted to talk to him so  that my mind would be distracted from worrying ,  but i felt that he needed full concentration to get us through. I just held on the hand rest of the chair.

 I imagined that poor people have always  exhibited their resilience this way. When calamities  happen, they are the first ones to suffer the initial  blows. Yet, they survive and eventually thrive. They  just need to go slow and sure. The rich and the  middle class are alienated from this kind of survival  strategy. That is why much is lost in them when  things go down. But not the poor; they are like fungi.  They don’t die. They morph after a catastrophe.

We got to the order end of the river. The  barker found a coarse spot where he could put down  the chair. He was painting heavily, beads of sweat  dripping from his temples. I thanked him and handed a twenty peso bill. He looked grateful and smiled. I  was waiting for him to utter an insulting remark so I  could give him the sermon of the day. But he didn’t.

 “Dacal a salamat pu koya. Thank you .  Pantunan mu naku potang bisa nakang mibalik keng  sumangid. Hatad daka. Just look for me when you  want to cross the river going back. I’ll take you.” He  said as he noded his head approvingly, once again  showing his toothless mouth “Sige pu, salamat mu  rin,” I replied.  

There was hardly any roving jeepney at all  when I climbed up the gully. Tricycles  were waiting   at the corner, but I chose not to ride in one. I  decided to walk. The house was only about five  minutes away anyway.

 As I was walking, I thought about what the  future would hold for this city I loved.  Kapampangans are known to be a proud people. I  only wished that they would get past all this soon. I  was hoping that I would also see my family complete  and in the best of health. My steps got quicker. I  started to run.

  At the threshold of the house, I saw Mother  carrying a bundle of laundry. When she saw me, she  smiled and patted my arm.    I was puzzled to see her carrying a load.  “Where are you going? I just got here. I was so  worried about you. Where is ate and her family, are  they okay?” I asked.    Mother placed the bundle on the table and  tightened it. “They’re all okay, thank God. I’m going  to Dau to give this to your ate.”    “What, are you serious?” I was shocked by  Mother’s retort. “The Abacan bridge has collapsed,  didn’t you know? How are you going to get to Dau?”    “I know that the Abacan bridge is no more,”  Mother said pensively. “I’ve been to Dau and back  Twice already. There are still barkers that lift chairs  down there in the river, aren’t there?” she looked at  me.    I was aghast to hear this from her. “You  mean you want to go down the river? You are not  afraid?”    “Why should I be afraid?” Mother  interrupted. “Only the old ones are afraid to cross the river. I am not that old. Besides, you’re here to  keep me company, right? I’ll cook your favorite  ginataang kamansi.”    I was dumbfounded. Mother was  unbelievable.    “Hurry up! The river gets deeper in the  afternoon,”Mother shouted “Let’s go.”












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